California Whitewater 
- Rogue
- Rio Grande
Rafting Classics
Big Bend Rafting on the Rio Grande
They say you will either love or hate it, be captivated by it, or find it extremely boring. At first glance, Big Bend, which is part of the Chihuauan Desert, appears to be a barren landscape, various shades of brown covering the earth for as far as the eye can see. But for those fascinated by ancient tales of dinosaurs, desert wildflowers, disappearing mountain ranges, and river trips on the Rio Grande through canyons with walls over a thousand feet high, Big Bend, Texas is wonderland of history, ecology, geology, and recreation.
Located in the Southwestern part of Texas, Big Bend National Park and
Big Bend State Ranch are defined on one side by the Rio Grande (or Rio
Bravo), which also creates the border between the United States and Mexico.
There are many activities to do in Big Bend, including rafting and canoeing
the Rio Grande, ATV rides and Jeep trips through the mountains, horseback
riding, mountain biking, and plenty of hiking in both the National Park
and the State Ranch.
Three outfitters run most of the guided river trips throughout the area. The river trips are on different sections of the Rio Grande depending on the length of the trip and the water level. The rapids fluctuate depending on flows, but they’re generally class I and II and are suitable for people of most ages. Overnight canoe or raft trips in the dramatic Santa Elena Canyon and remarkable Colorado Canyon are extremely popular and definitely worth experiencing. Nothing quite compares to a warm desert sunset and an evening spent in a river canyon under a sky glittered with stars. Guides rave about the five and six-day raft or canoe trips through the lower canyons because of their remoteness and exquisite beauty. The half-day river trips are great for kids or adults short on time, and they are a relaxing way to experience a day in the desert. Turtles are often sighted along the river banks and a snack in Mexico provides a great break from rafting.
The main center for river trips and guided tours is outside the park
in Turlingua, a very small town with quite a bit of charm once you explore
it. Many buildings that look vacant are in fact excellent restaurants,
bars, stores, and art galleries. Artists, musicians, naturalists, and
outdoors people are drawn to live in Big Bend and the surrounding towns,
such as Turlingua. These eccentric locals are very welcoming and incredibly
knowledgeable about the area. Tourists (especially urban-dwelling Texans)
head to Big Bend to escape the cities, and during the peak season in
March, the hotels are booked, the campgrounds are full, and the restaurants
are crowded. Turlingua was once a mining village during WWI and WWII,
when mercury was still in high demand, but it became vacant after WWII
and was not re-inhabited until the 1970’s. Over the past thirty
years, the old Ghost Town has regained its population and re-developed
its character. The Starlight Theater, whose roof was stolen, had a new
roof put on and is now a great venue for live music, dinner, and dancing.
It also boasts the “Best Porch in Texas,” and locals swear
that a visit to Big Bend is incomplete without an evening watching the
sunset from that porch. La Kiva is a fun bar and restaurant located on
the banks of the often dried-up Turlingua Creek. Tuesdays are karaoke
night with Cooter, a very colorful local character, and Wednesdays are
open mic night, both are a fun mix of locals and tourists.
The other town, Lajitas, is about 10 miles west of Turlingua and it is primarily a resort town, complete with a world-class gold course and spa. Rooms are not priced for thrifty vacationers and they say it’s hard to get a meal for less than $35 per person. Nevertheless, the resort does a great job of booking tours, as well as providing entertainment, some shopping, and activities throughout the day. There’s an excellent bar, the Thirsty Goat and the best deal on food is the buffet across from the bar.
Both Lajitas and Turlingua offer lodging, although most campgrounds, RV parks, and inexpensive hotels are closer to Turlingua. Some campgrounds are somewhat limited in facilities, but the RV park next to the Chevron station has coin showers ($2 for 6 minutes). La Kiva is a popular place for guides to set up “home” for a few months each winter. Rent is negotiable based on alcohol consumption at the La Kiva Bar and Restaurant. Bathrooms are available when the bar is open, from 5pm until 2am, but shovels and a personal roll of TP are otherwise necessary. Camping is available within the park limits, but they fill quickly, so reservations are recommended.